The 13 Christmas Desserts of Provence

The 13 desserts accompany the Provençal tradition during the Christmas festivities and bring together families across the South of France every year. The thirteen Christmas treats round off the Christmas dinner that precedes Midnight Mass. Do you know the origin of this wonderful Christmas tradition in Provence?

The Fabulous History of the 13 Desserts

It is difficult to date and trace the exact origin of this Provençal tradition of the 13 desserts. However, we do know that as early as 1683, this set of desserts already formed part of Provençal Christmas customs, thanks to a text by François Marchetti, a priest from Marseille, referring to various fruits and to the pompe à l'huile, an orange-blossom flavoured cake enjoyed by households during the last two days before Christmas. At the time, displaying numerous desserts on the Christmas table was a sign of abundance and prosperity for families.

A century later, between 1783 and 1787, Laurent-Pierre Bérenger, a French poet and moralist, was the first to describe the various Christmas desserts in his work entitled « Soirées Provençales ». Yet again, however, no figure indicates that these desserts numbered thirteen.

Indeed, the first mention of the 13 desserts only appears in 1925, in an issue of the newspaper La Pignato devoted to the Christmas festivities. Joseph Fallen, a writer from Aubagne and member of the Félibrige, settled on the number thirteen, in reference to Christ and his twelve apostles. Provençal tradition dictates that thirteen desserts should be prepared for Christmas Eve. This number may also be linked to the winter solstice tradition, which marks the end of the forty-day fast preceding Christmas.

The Tradition of These Thirteen Treats Today

Tradition dictates that the desserts be served on a table covered with three white tablecloths. These 13 desserts are served together and in abundance on Christmas evening, and they must remain on the table for three days, with every guest expected to taste each one. For three days, the enchanted atmosphere of Christmas will fill your home, creating moments of conviviality to share with family or friends.

The 13 Christmas Desserts: The List

The list of these 13 Christmas desserts can vary from town to town and across the regions of Provence, but here is the so-called « classic » list, which begins with the four beggars, four dried fruits and nuts representing the four religious orders :

• Walnuts, symbolising the Augustinians
• Dried figs, symbolising the Franciscans
• Raisins, symbolising the Dominicans
• Almonds, symbolising the Carmelites
• Pompe à l'huile, also known as fougasse
• Dates
• An assortment of candied fruits
• Quince paste
• Black nougat
• White nougat
• Calissons d'Aix-en-Provence
• Orange
• Watermelon

What matters most is the warmth with which you share your Christmas meal and your 13 desserts, and the magic that will then fill your table.

Our BARNES Aix-en-Provence estate agency wishes you a wonderful Christmas surrounded by those dearest to you, and hopes you enjoy indulging in these delicious 13 Christmas desserts !